Cab Mount Chop (CMC) for 35s
The cut that stops the body mount rubbing on 33s and up. Includes layout, cutting, plating and the paint step most people skip.
Confirm you actually need it
Cycle the steering full lock each way on level ground and look at the clearance between the tire shoulder and the body mount behind the front wheel. If you have less than a finger's width at full stuff, or you can see fresh scuffing, you need the chop.
Tape off and mark the cut
Make a cardboard template of the mount and mark the line at least 1in back from the tire's contact patch. Cover the area around the cut with masking tape and mark the line on the tape — you'll be cutting right next to the brake line and wiring.
Pull the lines out of the way
Unclip the brake and ABS lines from the inner fender and tie them back with zip ties. This is the step that people skip, and it's the reason people nick a brake line.
Cut, grind, and plate
Cut along your line with the grinder, then knock down the sharp edge with a flap disc. Weld the 3/16in plate over the opening, or have a shop do it — the plate is what gives the mount its strength back.
Seal it properly
Grind the welds smooth and paint the whole plate and edge with primer, then color-matched paint. Bare steel behind a front wheel rusts in one winter, and you'll be looking at it every time you turn the wheel.
Recheck clearance
Recycle the steering at full lock and full stuff. You should now have 1.5in or more. Re-route the brake lines and re-clip them so they don't chafe on the new edge.